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Empty two-car garage with a glossy gray, black and white flake epoxy floor, the overhead door open to a driveway and an autumn maple

Epoxy flooring in Evansville, IN

Concrete Crack Repair in Evansville

Evansville Epoxy refers concrete crack and grinding jobs to one independent local prep crew, free of charge. The crew can prep the slab for a new coating or simply fix the cracks. National cost guides put crack filling at about 50 cents to $3 a linear foot, and a cracked garage floor at about $150 to $1,000 to repair. Polyurea joint fillers can take traffic in an hour or less; epoxy fillers need 6 to 8 hours or more.

Concrete Crack and Floor Prep Types

Thin hairline crack wandering across a bare gray concrete garage floor, a plain gray utility knife beside it for scale

Hairline Shrinkage Cracks

Concrete shrinks as it dries, and almost every slab gets a few thin random cracks from it. The concrete industry's own guidance is that early random cracks are unsightly but rarely affect the slab's strength or service life. Before a coating goes on, they're opened up and filled so they don't show through. One system spec calls for cutting cracks open with a diamond blade to at least 1/4 by 1/4 inch, filling them with an epoxy patch, and grinding the patch flush once it's hard.

  • Crack filling: about $0.50 to $3 per linear foot
  • Small-crack patching on a porch or step: about $300 to $800 per job
Wide crack in a concrete garage floor with one side sitting slightly lower than the other, a plain gray tape measure laid across it

Moving and Structural Cracks

A crack that keeps widening, has one side lower than the other, or comes with a sinking or heaving section is a different problem. Settlement under the slab is one cause on the industry's list. One cost guide treats cracks wider than about 1/4 inch as a sign of possible structural trouble. A rigid epoxy fill over a crack that's still moving will crack again, and so will the coating on top of it. Ask the installer to say which cracks they consider active. Some can be filled and watched; others need a foundation or slab-leveling contractor before any coating.

Saw-cut control joint in a garage floor being filled flush with gray semi-rigid polyurea filler from a plain gray caulking gun, the excess shaved level with a scraper

Control and Expansion Joints

Joints are planned cracks. Contraction (control) joints are cut or tooled in so the slab cracks along them and not at random; recommended spacing is 24 to 36 times the slab's thickness, which works out to about 10 feet on a 4-inch slab. Isolation (expansion) joints separate the slab from walls, columns, sidewalks and driveways so each can move on its own. For a coating, the two are handled differently. Control joints in a garage or shop can be filled flush with a semi-rigid polyurea or epoxy filler, which also protects the joint edges from chipping under wheels. Isolation joints have to stay flexible. Ask which joints the installer will fill and coat over and which will stay open or get a flexible sealant.

Walk-behind diamond floor grinder with a plain gray vacuum hose on a garage floor, the ground half of the floor lighter and uniformly textured, the unground half darker and smooth

Diamond Grinding to Profile

Resin coatings need a slab with some tooth. The International Concrete Repair Institute grades prepared concrete from CSP 1, nearly smooth, to CSP 10, very rough, and coating data sheets name the profile they need. One common 100% solids epoxy calls for CSP 3 or rougher, and a quartz system asks for CSP 3 to 4. Diamond-tooled grinders reach CSP 1 to 3, enough for the CSP 3 that both of those products ask for. Grinding also takes off sealers, paint and the weak top skin of the slab. Ask which CSP the coating's data sheet calls for and how the crew will check they've reached it.

Ride-behind shot blaster on a large warehouse slab leaving a uniformly textured gray strip behind it, the unblasted concrete smoother and darker

Shot Blasting Large Slabs

A shot blaster throws steel shot at the floor and vacuums it back up, roughening the surface in a contained, dust-free pass. ICRI's guideline says shotblasting can produce anything from CSP 2 to CSP 9, and the guideline names it as a fit for a new high-build coating. On large slabs such as warehouses, pole barns and plant floors, ask whether the crew will blast or grind, and how the edges and corners will be prepared. For big floors, see shop floor epoxy and industrial epoxy flooring.

Walk-behind diamond grinder with a dust shroud and vacuum hose grinding a bare concrete garage floor, ground and unground concrete side by side

Why Evansville homeowners and businesses call Evansville Epoxy

  • One installer per request, never a list of callers
  • Ask for the coating system and cure times in writing
  • Ask that the moisture test and grinding appear in the quote
  • No charge to you for the referral

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Cracks on Outdoor Slabs

Patios, walks, driveways and pool decks crack for the same reasons as garage floors, plus freezing weather. Freeze-thaw cycles can break down some porous aggregates and cause D-cracks, which start at the joints of outdoor slabs. Before a coating goes on outdoor concrete, cracks and joints need the same treatment as inside, and the coating has to be one that handles sun and frost (concrete patio coating, pool deck coating).

Where the surface itself is worn out (scaled, pitted, or covered in a failed coating) and not just cracked, the job is garage floor resurfacing. For the coating that goes over a repaired garage floor, see epoxy garage floor coating.

Frequently asked questions

Should I fill my garage floor cracks before the installer comes?

It's better not to. Store caulks and sealants may not be compatible with the resin going on top, and the installer will cut the crack open again to fill it with their own patch material anyway. Sweep the floor, move what you can, and point out any crack you've watched grow, so it gets checked.

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